Kizhi is one of the most special destinations in Russia. Located on the island of the Lake Onega it features a beautiful ensemble of wooden churches, chapels and houses. Kizhi is included in the list of World Heritage sites. In 16th century the area of Kizhi was home to more than 100 villages, but now it is just a giant museum. The jewel of Kizhi is the 22-domed Transfiguration Church (built in 1714). The church was built without a single nail. In 1960 number of other churches were moved to the island to create one of the most unique and interesting open air museums of our time.
One of the most atmospheric places in Northern Russia is Kizhi Island in Lake Onega to the northeast of St Petersburg. What used to be an ancient pagan ritual site is now a popular tourist destination and an open-air museum containing a beautiful ensemble of wooden churches, chapels and houses. These fantastic buildings, usually put together without a single nail, are, for most, the very essence of the Russian experience, and there is an amazing array here, with over 80 pieces of wooden architecture, either built here or carried from all the parts of Karelia and reassembled.
The gem of the Island is the Kizhsky Pogost (Kizhi Enclosure) which includes two churches and a bell-tower standing between them. The highlight is the massive 23-domed Transfiguration Church built in 1714. Reaching almost 100 feet, it is one of the tallest log buildings in the world, but it is ingenious stacking of the domes that makes the church so extraordinary. The interior is beautifully decorated, too, with four stunning stepped iconostasis consisting of 102 XVII-XIX century icons.
Next to the Transfiguration Church is the smaller, nine-domed Church of Intercession built in such a way that it balances and supplements the larger church. Its domes are neat and expressive but seem almost modest next to its extravagant neighbor. The Kizhsky Pogost is completed by the bell-tower standing between the two churches. All the three constructions are put on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Among other highlights of Kizhi is the diminutive Church of Resurrection of Lazarus moved here from the Murom Monastery. It is by far the oldest building in the collection, dating back to the 14th century, and maybe the oldest wooden building in Russia. It is believed by the monks to have a 'miraculous power that cures the illnesses.' The Chapels of Archangel Mikhail, of the Assumption of Virgin Mary, of the Divine Savior and many others complete the ensemble of this atmospheric place.
Usually half a day is enough to look at the key places, but it is worth taking a whole day to explore the nearby villages which preserve the character of peasants' times and contain many ancient artifacts like tableware and tools.
The nearest city to Kizhi is Petrozavodsk, which has direct flights from Moscow. From Petrozavodsk's ferry terminal you can take a hydrofoil which does several outward trips a day in the mornings in summer, then several return trips in the afternoon. The last starting back from Kizhi, even in high summer, is about 4.25 pm, so mind the time since there's no accommodation for an overnight stay! In winter, you can reach the island by chartered helicopter, which can be very expensive unless you are traveling in a group.
Kizhi is especially beautiful during the long northern summer white nights when the church domes shine with a mysterious, almost phosphoric light. At sunset, too, when the sun is sinking below the horizon, everything is illuminated by a scarlet glimmer that gradually drops to leaden gray. And on fine winter mornings, the snow-covered churches dazzle like weird fairy palaces in the sun. It's not easy to get to the island at these special times - most people go on a brief summer day trip from Petrozavodsk - but it's a memorable experience whenever you go.
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