In Russia there is very often a sense that tourism is not something which is held in very high esteem but in Yelabuga, one of the principal towns of Tatarstan, close to the River Volga, you have a real sense of what is possible here. In 2007, this town celebrated its millennium and with the help of money from the state, it renovated a large part of the old town and restored areas of outstanding interest. You will have no doubt noticed the quaint style of Russian villages but here in Yelabuga, this form of architecture is alive and well. Ancient log buildings have been brought up to date and the variety and quality of decoration is phenomenal. In these days of green, ecological developments, they are shining examples of the new learning from the old. Whole sections of the old town are made up of these beautiful, individual low-rise wooden houses

Part of the redevelopment of this town is due to its part in literary and art history as it is home to the museums dedicated to both the celebrated poet Marina Tsvetayeva and also the early home of the artist Shushkin which is now also a museum. Both are worth visiting and are easy to find thanks to the modern signposting in Yelabuga.

The old town is also home to three beautiful churches, the most interesting of which is called the Spasskaya Church, not far from the striking war memorial. This church is currently undergoing restoration, which may or may not change its character forever. Try and see it soon before all the old and beautiful paintings are restored; they are striking even as they are and the church itself has a certain magic in its very fabric. Best of all, for just a few roubles, the price of an altar candle, you can climb the bell tower which is over 150 feet high up rickety wooden steps until you are at the highest point in the district looking down over mile after mile of the countryside leading down to the Kama River. The small towns of Russia can be beautiful and here is one which is ready and willing to welcome visitors.

David Turner, September 2008