RJ

First off, the tour of the Golden Ring on May 19-23 was definitely the high-lite of the entire trip. The guide, Anna, and the driver, Dima, were excellent. We could not have asked for better traveling companions; their knowledge of the area, and their efforts and attitude in our behalf, were beyond the 'call of duty'. - RJ Fensterman

We are back in Virginia after our 23-day Odessey to 'Mother Russia'; it was all I was expecting, probably more than that, and it will take a long time to digest all that we saw, heard and experienced. First off, the tour of the Golden Ring on May 19-23 was definitely the high-lite of the entire trip. The guide, Anna, and the driver, Dima, were excellent. We could not have asked for better traveling companions; their knowledge of the area, and their efforts and attitude in our behalf, were beyond the 'call of duty'. Please extend our appreciation to them. And thank you for booking them. Perfect choice. The transfer from SpB to Pulkovo went very well; the driver's name was Andrei and he did an excellent job taking care of us at the airport. The second transfer, from SVO-1 to SVO-2 was efficient enough, but the driver actually asked me for a tip, even though he was no where near as helpful as Andrei. During the trip, I gave a tip to each driver and guide, none of whom asked for one. I was tempted not to give him one, but I did give him one, since the rubles were already in my hand.

The hotels worked out well. The Sokol in Suzdal was very good; another 'check-plus' for you. The best lodging on the entire trip to Russia, was Plekhanov's Manor in Rostov-Veliky. The Shelestoff in Kostroma was probaably one of strangest places we've ever stayed (my choice, of course): virtually no parking, and a freight train ran thru the entry courtyard; the interior decor was modern-on-steroids, obviously a favorite with the New Russian Rock crowd. The Volga Pearl in Yaroslavl was also very nice; but the staff and service left a lot to be desired. Food in general was unusual for us. But the bread and blinis and deserts were great! Sheremetyevo-2 Airport still has a long way to go in terms of passenger convenience and efficiency.

One must allow at least an hour on arrival (no elevators for getting your luggage downstairs to passport control, and long confusing ill-managed lines at the windows; as far as we experienced, the entire staff there is still infected with Soviet-style apparatchnik thinking; particularly if one is speaking English. Departure was no better, perhaps worse; they rummaged through our luggage looking for someone smuggling-out Catherine's Coronation Crown. not once but twice, since their wrong directions sent us through the wrong line, thus we had to go thru again even though we already had a customs sticker on our bags. I've heard that Domodevo Airport is a lot better, but there are no non-stop flights there from the USA. Pulkovo and SVO-1 were much easier to deal with, but they were only for Domestic Russian Flights. Rossiya was very effecient -- except for the long line to pick-up the paper ticket on NevskyProspekt. Once they get the tickets on e-mail, I think they will be a good choice. Both Rossiya and Aeroflot were very effecient and timely in the air.

Oh, yes: the metro systems in both Moscow and St Petersburg were easily the best public transport we have ever experienced. One question, however. With such excellent Public Transport why do Muscovites and Petersburgers insist on driving SUVs? Worse traffic jams I've ever seen anywhere. The Traffic Police make no attempt to help; all they seem to do is stop nice cars at random in order to accept bribes. Conclusion. The bad was bad, but the good was much much better. I'm still a Russophile. Only I'd only consider living there
if I could speak Russian fluently.

Here is my list (Americans are obcessed with lists and rankings, you realize) of what I experienced in Russia....
Most beautiful church visited (location, exterior, interior): Church on the Spilled Blood, SpB
Oldest church visited: St Sophia in Novgorod, 1050 (couldn't really tell it from those built in 1130 or so)
Favorite monastery visited:: Tie between Valaam and Aleksandr Svirsky (Svirstroy)
Favorite Cemetary: Aleksandr Nevsky Master of Arts Necropolis in Spb
Favorite metropolis visited: Sankt Peterbourg
Ugliest town visited: Ivanovo (did not stop)
Favorite towns/villages visited (in order of appreciation): Plyos, Rostov-Veliky, Kizhi, Yaroslavl, Abramstevo, Suzdal
Favorite art museum visited: Tretyakov in Moscow (Russian Impressionism is my favorite painting)
Favorite historical museum: Dostoevsky House in SpB
Favorite Gardens visited: Peterhof
Favorite Palace visited: Tie between Pavlovsk and Yusapov
Favorite Hotel stay: Plekhanov's Manor in Rostov

Hope everything is going well with your business. I imagine you are really busy now that the White Nights are in full swing. Keep in touch...A warm handshake in thought.

R.J.Fensterman