A Piece of Italy in Kazan

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"How intoxicating, how wonderful is a summer's day in Russia. How languishingly hot are the hours." Are the opening lines of Sorochinsky Fair by Gogol written in the 1830's and little has changed since then.

I found myself in Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan in early July and the city was basking in temperatures of 80 degrees. To cool down I decided to visit the delightful cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul in the Privoljski quarter of town. This cathedral was built in the first half of the eighteenth century following the visit of Tsar Peter the First to Kazan. The building is unique in Kazan, neither orthodox nor Islamic in style; it was designed by Italian architects and at first sight you feel as if you have been transported to a Piazza in Milan. The only difference is that the two towers are surmounted by glittering golden lukovki, the characteristic 'onion-shaped' domes.

I entered the courtyard and was struck by the heat of the day as it reflected off the baking stone walls. Before me a tiled staircase twisted around the church. I climbed the flights of steps and finally turned between two monumental ironbound doors. After the harsh brightness of the sunlight, my eyes struggled to adjust to the shady Baroque interior but soon I was able to stare in wonder at the beautifully intricate decoration within. The altar is carved in wood, lavishly gilded and consists of finely detailed flowers, grapevines and leaves. Grateful for the cool and shade, I spent a happy hour breathing in the incense-scented air and sharing this magnificent space with an ever-changing group of worshippers before I made my way once more into the heat of the day and the hustle and bustle of Kazan's busy Bauman Street.