A Piece of Italy in Kazan
"How intoxicating, how wonderful is a summer's day in Russia. How
languishingly hot are the hours." Are the opening lines of
Sorochinsky Fair by Gogol written in the 1830's and little has
changed since then.
I found myself in Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan in early July and
the city was basking in temperatures of 80 degrees. To cool down I
decided to visit the delightful cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul
in the Privoljski quarter of town. This cathedral was built in the
first half of the eighteenth century following the visit of Tsar
Peter the First to Kazan. The building is unique in Kazan, neither
orthodox nor Islamic in style; it was designed by Italian
architects and at first sight you feel as if you have been
transported to a Piazza in Milan. The only difference is that the
two towers are surmounted by glittering golden lukovki, the
characteristic 'onion-shaped' domes.
I entered the courtyard and was struck by the heat of the day as it
reflected off the baking stone walls. Before me a tiled staircase
twisted around the church. I climbed the flights of steps and
finally turned between two monumental ironbound doors. After the
harsh brightness of the sunlight, my eyes struggled to adjust to
the shady Baroque interior but soon I was able to stare in wonder
at the beautifully intricate decoration within. The altar is carved
in wood, lavishly gilded and consists of finely detailed flowers,
grapevines and leaves. Grateful for the cool and shade, I spent a
happy hour breathing in the incense-scented air and sharing this
magnificent space with an ever-changing group of worshippers before
I made my way once more into the heat of the day and the hustle and
bustle of Kazan's busy Bauman Street.
06.26.2008
1-800-884-1721
