Until 1966, Mikhail Bulgakov's classic tale remained unpublished but when it did finally arrive in bookshops, "The Master and Margarita" caused a sensation both in Russia and around the world. This tale about the mischief caused by the devil disguised as a 'foreign magician' and his unlikely band of helpers in 1930's Moscow is full of surprises and by turns hilariously funny and bitterly ironic.
Bulgakov's comic masterpiece mixes fantasy with hard reality and almost all of the locations in the story are easy to find today in modern Moscow. I can clearly remember my excitement as I arrived at Patriarch Ponds (near Maiakovskaia metro) where the action in the story begins and I looked round to find the place little changed from Bulgakov's description. The only thing missing was the 'Beer and Cold Drinks' stand which only sold warm apricot juice and the tramway which was the cause of Berlioz' accident!
Other easy to find locations include the Torgsin store which was set on fire by Behemoth and Korovyov at the end of their spree around Moscow situated on the Arbat just near the Smolenskaya Square and metro which retains many features from the 30's. Sparrow Hills to the South of Moscow is now home to the university but if you visit at twilight and stop at one of the many cafes or bistros there, you too can enjoy the panorama of Moscow surveyed by Woland before he departed forever.
The real treat for any fan of the book is of course "The Evil Apartment" itself which is of course at number 50, 302bis Sadovaya ulitsa. Once you squeeze through the narrow gate into the courtyard you enter a world of artwork and designs featuring scenes from the novel before climbing the staircase into apartment 50 itself. It is now a museum dedicated to Bulgakov, which is free to enter, and it is the centre for all sorts of walking tours of Moscow and drama events. The exhibition is interesting but best of all is the atmospheric café which is small, intimate and captures the burlesque tone of the book exactly. When you visit be sure to look out for the museum's pet; a huge black cat called, of course, Behemoth!
David Turner
Oct 30, 2008
1-800-884-1721
