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Set amid lush meadows on the Kamenka river, the ancient city of
Suzdal is one of the most beautiful gems of the Golden Ring Cities. An abundance of
traditional wooden architecture helps create a unique atmosphere of
rural calmness and serenity, while a host of wonderful old domed
churches, bell-towers and monasteries testify to Suzdal's status as
one of the spiritual centres of Russian Orthodox Church. The city's
charm is so great and peculiar that it was even left untouched by
Soviet industrialization that destroyed so much of Russia's heritage. No wonder artists come here
by the score to sit in its quiet lanes and paint.
Suzdal is one of Russia's oldest cities, dating back to at least
1024. Prince Yury Dolgoruki made it his regional capital in the
12th century, and it became a fortress city whose kremlin protected
the Russian border in the times of Kievan Russia. Today, the
Kremlin forms the historic heart of Suzdal, and contains its oldest
houses. When the Muscovite tsars
became to power in the 16th century, Suzdal lost its political
status, but instead became a major religious centre. Its religious
architectural heritage is extraordinary, with 30 more than 30
churches and 5 monasteries, each decorated in its own way.
One of the most impressive of Suzdal's religious buildings is the
Intercession Convent, steeped in the sad stories of the noble women
banished here by their husbands when they became tiresome. This
dark tradition was started by Tsar Vasily III, who sent his wife
Solomonia there in 1525 because of her supposed infertility. In
fact, by the time she went to the convent, she was actually
pregnant but it was too late; Vasily was already married to the
beautiful Lithuanian princess Yelena Glenskaya who bore him two
sons, including the boy who was to become Ivan the Terrible. To
save her son's life from Ivan's persecution, Solomonia had to stage
his mock burial, and was said to have put a curse on Yelena's
offspring. Later Ivan the Terrible also sent one of his wives to
Suzdal's convent. Even Peter the Great, a tsar who was so proud to
have open-minded European views, exiled his first wife here. The
walls of the monastery will open you a lot of its mysteries and
impress with its unique interior and exterior.
Another beautiful place in Suzdal is The Cathedral of Nativity of
the Virgin. Although the Cathedral's main brick walls are 16th
century, the carved white stones at the base date back to the days
prior to the Mongol-Tatar invasion in the 12th century. The
cathedral's five blue domes are dotted with glittering golden stars
while its medieval doors are covered in damascene gold and richly
decorated with scenes from the New Testament. Inside, there are
wonderful 13th century frescos.
Among the other highlights are the massive Saviour Monastery of St
Euthymius, the Suzdal's biggest monastery; The Cathedral of the
Transfiguration of the Saviour and its XVI century bell tower which
gives a concert chimes every 90 minutes from noon till evening; St
Nicholas' Church which hosts a museum of Russian applied arts
exhibits which date back from XII to XX century. The Museum of
Wooden Architecture and Peasant Life contains log houses, wooden
churches and windmills brought there from all over the region. Most
of the churches are situated in picturesque settings and walking
from one to another you will deeply feel and experience the unique
Russian spiritual atmosphere which surrounds the ancient buildings
and green calm landscape.
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