Suzdal

Set amid lush meadows on the Kamenka river, the ancient city of Suzdal is one of the most beautiful gems of the Golden Ring Cities. An abundance of traditional wooden architecture helps create a unique atmosphere of rural calmness and serenity, while a host of wonderful old domed churches, bell-towers and monasteries testify to Suzdal's status as one of the spiritual centres of Russian Orthodox Church. The city's charm is so great and peculiar that it was even left untouched by Soviet industrialization that destroyed so much of Russia's heritage. No wonder artists come here by the score to sit in its quiet lanes and paint.

Suzdal is one of Russia's oldest cities, dating back to at least 1024. Prince Yury Dolgoruki made it his regional capital in the 12th century, and it became a fortress city whose kremlin protected the Russian border in the times of Kievan Russia. Today, the Kremlin forms the historic heart of Suzdal, and contains its oldest houses. When the Muscovite tsars became to power in the 16th century, Suzdal lost its political status, but instead became a major religious centre. Its religious architectural heritage is extraordinary, with 30 more than 30 churches and 5 monasteries, each decorated in its own way.

One of the most impressive of Suzdal's religious buildings is the Intercession Convent, steeped in the sad stories of the noble women banished here by their husbands when they became tiresome. This dark tradition was started by Tsar Vasily III, who sent his wife Solomonia there in 1525 because of her supposed infertility. In fact, by the time she went to the convent, she was actually pregnant but it was too late; Vasily was already married to the beautiful Lithuanian princess Yelena Glenskaya who bore him two sons, including the boy who was to become Ivan the Terrible. To save her son's life from Ivan's persecution, Solomonia had to stage his mock burial, and was said to have put a curse on Yelena's offspring. Later Ivan the Terrible also sent one of his wives to Suzdal's convent. Even Peter the Great, a tsar who was so proud to have open-minded European views, exiled his first wife here. The walls of the monastery will open you a lot of its mysteries and impress with its unique interior and exterior.

Another beautiful place in Suzdal is The Cathedral of Nativity of the Virgin. Although the Cathedral's main brick walls are 16th century, the carved white stones at the base date back to the days prior to the Mongol-Tatar invasion in the 12th century. The cathedral's five blue domes are dotted with glittering golden stars while its medieval doors are covered in damascene gold and richly decorated with scenes from the New Testament. Inside, there are wonderful 13th century frescos.

Among the other highlights are the massive Saviour Monastery of St Euthymius, the Suzdal's biggest monastery; The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour and its XVI century bell tower which gives a concert chimes every 90 minutes from noon till evening; St Nicholas' Church which hosts a museum of Russian applied arts exhibits which date back from XII to XX century. The Museum of Wooden Architecture and Peasant Life contains log houses, wooden churches and windmills brought there from all over the region. Most of the churches are situated in picturesque settings and walking from one to another you will deeply feel and experience the unique Russian spiritual atmosphere which surrounds the ancient buildings and green calm landscape.